Saturday, May 10, 2025

Blaufränkisch of Upstate New York's Finger Lakes Region

The Finger Lakes wine region of upstate New York has always held a special place in my heart.  It’s the reason why I first started to get into wine from my annual visits I use to take to the region many years ago.  Sadly, I haven’t been back since my first born was just a baby so I’m long overdue considering he is about to be 9 in a couple months.  A friend and local fellow wine lover, Alison Miller of Artisan Wine Group, recently had a wine tasting girls' night at her house with Laura of the Wine Travelista, where our theme was the Finger Lakes wine region.  We were also joined by our other wine loving friend, Laura of the WineTravelista. I was thrilled to revisit this beloved region. 

When our World Wine Travel writer's group’s theme this month was featuring lesser known regions, I immediately thought of the Finger Lakes for a couple reasons.  One, because I’ve always been a big fan of this region, and two because of my recent wine tasting of the Blaufränkisch grape from this region that I thought would be a unique and fun grape to share that most may not be familiar with.   

Let’s look at the Finger Lakes wine region and more about this grape along with the featured wines. 

The Finger Lakes wine region 

If you’re in the Boston area, like myself, the Finger Lakes wine region is about 400 miles west taking about 6 hours to reachIf you’re coming from the Canadian side in Toronto, it’s about a 3.5-hour ride.  The Finger Lakes is well worth the drive and visit no matter your location as you’ll be swept away by the vineyards lining the shores of the many lakes that inhabit the region.  As you’ll see from the map, the region gets it name from the shape of the lakes in the form of fingers that were carved out by glaciers thousands of years ago.   

map of Finger Lakes wine region upstate New York
Sourced from Finger Lakes Wine Alliance

The Finger Lakes AVA, American Viticultural Area, was established back in 1982 and encompasses three different wine trails across Seneca Lake, Cayuga Lake and Keuka LakeThe region contains 11 lakes, but the prior 3 lakes mentioned along with Canandaigua Lake make up the majority of where the 150+ wineries are locatedCayuga Lake is the longest of them at 40 miles long and Seneca Lake claims the deepest at over 600 feet deep. 

The Finger Lakes region is a cool climate region where the lakes create a cooling affect for the vineyards during the warmer months and it also helps protect them from the first onset of frost as it approaches in the fall/winter timeframeEach lake and has its own depths and elevations that all create microclimates within each AVA and wine territory. 

You’ll find a find a large variety of grapes produced through the Finger Lakes wine region, but it’s most known for its world class RieslingsEach winery you visit will most likely produce Riesling in a variety of styles from dry to semi-dry to semi-dry and sweetOther vinifera grapes include Cabernet Franc, which is another known grape of this region, as well as Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio and GewurztraminerThere are several unique grapes like Blaufränkisch, Saperavi and Gruner Veltliner as well as hybrids like Seyval, Cayuga White, Vignoles, Vidal Blanc and Chancellor to name a few. 

The Blaufränkisch grape 

I became familiar with Blaufränkisch when I first started visiting the Finger Lakes region about 20 years ago since it was introduced in wineries at that time as LembergerThis is typically what it is called in Germany. The grape is rooted in Austria but is found across several eastern European countries to include Slovenia, Hungary and others. 

Blaufränkisch does particularly well in the Finger Lakes cool climate.   

Although Blaufränkisch can be produced in a variety of styles, as I experienced from the two wines I’ll be sharing, there are some common characteristics that you will findIt’s a dark-skinned grape that lends some nice color to the glass.  It’s a mid to late ripening grapeIt typically will show darker fruits along with spice and possibly some pepperIt brings good acidity and tannin to the wines and because of this is very food friendly and versatile. 

The Wines 

We tasted two Blaufränkisch from both Ravines Wine Cellars and Knapp WineryTwo very different styles of Blaufränkisch so it truly is a matter of personal preferenceAlthough I personally enjoyed the Ravines Blaufränkisch, I think the Blaufränkisch from Knapp Winery, with a little chill, can be enjoyable as well. 

Ravines Wine Cellar is located on Keuka Lake and is celebrating 25 years since it was first establishedToday, Ravines has 130 across multiple vineyard sites at both Keuka and Seneca Lake.  Owners, Morten and Lisa Hallgren, aim to produce wines that are dry, and mineral driven which also practicing sustainable farming methods.  

Ravines Wine Cellars on Keuka Lake
Ravines Wine Cellars on Keuka Lake - sourced from Ravines Wine Cellars

Ravines Wine Cellars on Keuka Lake
Morten and Lisa Hallgren - sourced from Ravines Wine Cellars
The 2015 Ravines Wine Cellars Blaufränkisch I could not locate technical notes on, and I didn’t see it is something that they still produce today based on their website, except in their Ravinous Red where it is blended with Merlot for their wine club membersThis wine was dark ruby in color with aromas of jammy fruits (raspberry, plum, black cherry) with a hint of black licorice and spiceMedium to fuller-bodied, prior fruits listed showing nicely on the palateIt was well-balanced with a touch of vanilla with subtle tanninABV 12.5% 

2015 Ravines Wine Cellars Blaufränkisch

The Knapp winery is located on neighboring Cayuga Lake.  It is in celebration of its 40th anniversary from when the original owners, Doug and Susan Knapp, first established it.  It did change hands in 2021 with new ownership over to Cole and Karen Wilson.  

Knapp Winery on Cayuga Lake
Sourced from Knapp Winery

Knapp winery on Cayuga Lake
Karen and Cole Wilson - sourced from Knapp Winery
The 2021 Knapp Winery Blaufränkisch was a very different wine from the prior tasted.  A transparent light brick colored wine with aromas of white pepper, wet rock and a mustiness.  This wine was more sour, tart cherry with pepper and dried herbs.  ABV 11.2%, SRP $29.  Knapp’s Blaufränkisch also won “Best in Class Blaufränkisch in the 2022 Governor’s Cup”.

2021 Knapp Winery Blaufränkisch

There is no better way to understand wines by visiting the wineries themselves, but you can always start getting familiar with them by locating these wines in your local market or by joining the wine clubsThe Finger Lakes wine producers are crafting quality wines well worth experiencing that define their territory and show the capabilities of what has developed in this region.   

Discover many of the world’s lesser-known wine regions with our wine writers' group.  Here are some of the topics being covered.

  • Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles dishes on “Liechtenstein, Valle d’Aosta and the Umpqua Valley – a few wine regions you may may not be familiar with”

  • Martin from Enoflyz Wine Blog shares “Beyond the Usual: Discovering Teran from Slovenia’s Coastal Karst”

  • Gwendolyn from Wine Predator showcases “Discovering Virginia Wine + Cuisine via the Governor’s Cup Case 2025: 3 Red Blends with Ham, Gratin, Greens”

  • Cathie from Side Hustle Vino adds “Off The Beaten Vineyard in Guanajuato, Mexico”

  • Andrea from The Quirky Cork brings “Greece’s Most Ancient Grape Finds a Home on the Slopes of Meliton”

  • Camilla from Culiary Cam writes “Rkatsiteli: An Ancient Grape from the Oldest Wine-Producing Region on Earth” (you're here)

  • Terri from Our Good Life joins with “New-to-Me Wine Region: Affinitas Sarga Muskotaly in Hungary”

  • Wendy from A Day in the Life On The Farm pens “Sipping a Chardonnay from the Fingers Lake Area”

  • And Susannah at Avvinare, will write about “Discovering Brda in Slovenia”

 

You can find many of the wines of the Finger Lakes on Wine.com in support of Vino Travels or try out many of the region's wine clubs.

 
*I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through affiliate links.
 

Saturday, April 12, 2025

Kellerei Bozen Lagrein Pairing with a One Pot Sausage and Farro Dish

It’s amazing how fast the years go by and as I reflect on the anniversary of Vino Travels this month as it has been 12 years since I started my blogging and wine journey.  I’ve come a long way and still have a long way to go, but that’s why they call it a journey right?!   

Italian wine blog blogiversary

There is no better way to celebrate my blogiversary than with our Italian Food, Wine & Travel group as we celebrate alpine red and white wines of Italy this month.  It’s been an educational experience learning and writing alongside many of the writers of this group throughout these 12 years.  What’s even better is that the wines that I'm sharing today from Kellerei Bozen were enjoyed amongst many of the members of this wine group since one of the writers, Susannah of Vigneto Communications, invited us to a virtual tasting with the Winery Director, Matthias Messner, to learn all about Kellerei Bozen.   

Matthias Mesner Winery Director Kellerei Bozen
Matthias Messner - copyright of Kellerei Bozen

The Alto Adige wine region 

Kellerei Bozen is situated in the region of Alto Adige, also known as Sudtirol, that is situated in northern Italy on the border of Austria and Switzerland receiving the climatic influences of both the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps with the Dolomites to the north. I love the dramatic landscape that surrounds you when you visit this region.  Plus, there is an abundance of sunshine with over 300 days of sun gracing the vineyards along with great ventilation and breezes that pass through.   

Kellerei Bozen vineyards in Alto Adige
Alto Adige today is mostly dominated by white wines with stats from 2023 showing white wines production sitting at about 65% and 35% red wine production.  Surprisingly, 98% of the production is formed under the DOC across 20 different varieties of grapes. 

Cooperatives are very popular in Alto Adige.  Matthias shared that there are 12 coops within the region making up 75% of the regions production, with Kellerei Bozen respected within the top 3 of the coops.  The cooperative allows the winery to support local wine growers while also producing high quality wines.  Their aim is to produce elegant and mineral driven wines that showcase their terroir. 

All About Kellerei Bozen 

The beginnings of what became Kellerei Bozen initially began back in 1908 when 30 vine growers from the town of Gries banded together to produce wine.  In 1930 18 growers from Santa Maddalena area also started a coop during a very challenging economic time.  During World War II their winery had been hit with a bomb.  They decided to band together with the vine growers from Gries.  It wasn’t until 2001 when they officially merged under Cantina Bozen.  

Today Kellerei Bozen consists of 224 growers across 340 hectares of vineyards with their wine production providing equal red and white wines.  Many of the vineyards are located on hillsides (86%) with the rest on the plains.  This is consistent with much of the Alto Adige vineyards as they are very slope driven and due to this require hand harvesting of the grapes. 

The winery has a strong focus on sustainability utilizing several methods including solar panels for their power, use of biodegradable materials, organic fertilizers and green manuring to name a few.  A new winery was built in 2008 that allows gravitational force to take place throughout its 5 levels during the wine production avoiding the use of additional machinery.   

 

Kellerei Bozen winery in Alto Adige
Kellerei Bozen winery - copyright of Kellerei Bozen

The Wines 

I loved one of the quotes I came across in my research that Kellerei produces “Mediterranean red wines in the land of contrasts”.  With such cultural influences of this region and a heavier of presence of white wines as well this really stood out to me.   

I decided to focus today on their Lagrein and will share the other 2 I tasted for a future pairing.  Lagrein is a cross between the Teroldego grape and Schiava grape.  The area of Gries is well known for producing quality Lagrein.   

The 2022 Kellerei Bozen Perl Lagrein Alto Adige DOC spends time maturing in large oak barrels plus additional time in the bottle and is released 1 year after the harvest.  This wine was deeply ruby colored with purple hues.  On the nose are intense, jammy dark fruits of plum, black cherry and blackberries with a hint of spice.  It is medium to fuller bodied on the palate with concentrated black fruits showing finishing with silky tannins.  ABV 13.5%, SRP $28 

2022 Kellerei Bozen “Perl” Lagrein Alto Adige DOC

The 2020 Kellerei Bozen Taber Lagrein Riserva Alto Adige DOC is made from low yields on 80 year old vines in Gries.   It’s aged for 1 year in French barrique and is a wine that they recommend that will improve with 10-15 years of aging.  According to their site, it’s the most awarded wine from the Alto Adige region. 

2020 Kellerei Bozen “Taber” Lagrein Riserva Alto Adige DOC

The Taber has the similar color and intensity in comparison to the Perl.  A nice blend of both black and red fruits on the nose and palate with this wine.  Nice layers and complexity on the palate with notes of chocolate, cassis, raspberry with great balance of acidity, fruit and tannins.  My pick of the two!  ABV 14%, SRP $80 

Pairing with Lagrein 

During our virtual tasting it was suggested to pair the Taber Lagrein with deer, steak or tortelloni with sausage.  Since my boys are big fans of sausage, and I have to appease many different palates in this house, I decided to go with a one pot sausage dish.  I browned some chicken sausage in a saute pan and then added some garlic, mushrooms, diced tomatoes, 1 cup of farro and 2 cups of chicken broth and simmered the ingredients for about 25 minutes.  Upon serving I added some additional sauteed spinach I had prepared on the side along with some grated pecorino on top. 

The sausage and farro dish was not only a hit, and one I’ll be making again, but paired really well with both Lagrein wines.  Simplicity in preparation of the dish with a blend of the complexity of flavors in the sausage and wine will please your palate and soul. 

Lagrein pairing with one pot sausage, mushrooms and farro
one pot sausage, mushroom and farro dish

Follow along with the rest of the Italian food and wine writers as they take you through an array of Italian alpine red and white wines with some suggested pairings. 

 
*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.