Kellerei Bozen Lagrein Pairing with a One Pot Sausage and Farro Dish

It’s amazing how fast the years go by and as I reflect on the anniversary of Vino Travels this month as it has been 12 years since I started my blogging and wine journey.  I’ve come a long way and still have a long way to go, but that’s why they call it a journey right?!   

There is no better way to celebrate my blogiversary than with our Italian Food, Wine & Travel group as we celebrate alpine red and white wines of Italy this month.  It’s been an educational experience learning and writing alongside many of the writers of this group throughout these 12 years.  What’s even better is that the wines that I'm sharing today from Kellerei Bozen were enjoyed amongst many of the members of this wine group since one of the writers, Susannah of Vigneto Communications, invited us to a virtual tasting with the Winery Director, Matthias Messner, to learn all about Kellerei Bozen.   

Matthias Messner - copyright of Kellerei Bozen

The Alto Adige wine region 

Kellerei Bozen is situated in the region of Alto Adige, also known as Sudtirol, that is situated in northern Italy on the border of Austria and Switzerland receiving the climatic influences of both the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps with the Dolomites to the north. I love the dramatic landscape that surrounds you when you visit this region.  Plus, there is an abundance of sunshine with over 300 days of sun gracing the vineyards along with great ventilation and breezes that pass through.   

Alto Adige today is mostly dominated by white wines with stats from 2023 showing white wines production sitting at about 65% and 35% red wine production.  Surprisingly, 98% of the production is formed under the DOC across 20 different varieties of grapes. 

Cooperatives are very popular in Alto Adige.  Matthias shared that there are 12 coops within the region making up 75% of the regions production, with Kellerei Bozen respected within the top 3 of the coops.  The cooperative allows the winery to support local wine growers while also producing high quality wines.  Their aim is to produce elegant and mineral driven wines that showcase their terroir. 

All About Kellerei Bozen 

The beginnings of what became Kellerei Bozen initially began back in 1908 when 30 vine growers from the town of Gries banded together to produce wine.  In 1930 18 growers from Santa Maddalena area also started a coop during a very challenging economic time.  During World War II their winery had been hit with a bomb.  They decided to band together with the vine growers from Gries.  It wasn’t until 2001 when they officially merged under Cantina Bozen.  

Today Kellerei Bozen consists of 224 growers across 340 hectares of vineyards with their wine production providing equal red and white wines.  Many of the vineyards are located on hillsides (86%) with the rest on the plains.  This is consistent with much of the Alto Adige vineyards as they are very slope driven and due to this require hand harvesting of the grapes. 

The winery has a strong focus on sustainability utilizing several methods including solar panels for their power, use of biodegradable materials, organic fertilizers and green manuring to name a few.  A new winery was built in 2008 that allows gravitational force to take place throughout its 5 levels during the wine production avoiding the use of additional machinery.   

 

Kellerei Bozen winery - copyright of Kellerei Bozen

The Wines 

I loved one of the quotes I came across in my research that Kellerei produces “Mediterranean red wines in the land of contrasts”.  With such cultural influences of this region and a heavier of presence of white wines as well this really stood out to me.   

I decided to focus today on their Lagrein and will share the other 2 I tasted for a future pairing.  Lagrein is a cross between the Teroldego grape and Schiava grape.  The area of Gries is well known for producing quality Lagrein.   

The 2022 Kellerei Bozen “Perl” Lagrein Alto Adige DOC spends time maturing in large oak barrels plus additional time in the bottle and is released 1 year after the harvest.  This wine was deeply ruby colored with purple hues.  On the nose are intense, jammy dark fruits of plum, black cherry and blackberries with a hint of spice.  It is medium to fuller bodied on the palate with concentrated black fruits showing finishing with silky tannins.  ABV 13.5%, SRP $28 

The 2020 Kellerei Bozen “Taber” Lagrein Riserva Alto Adige DOC is made from low yields on 80 year old vines in Gries.   It’s aged for 1 year in French barrique and is a wine that they recommend that will improve with 10-15 years of aging.  According to their site, it’s the most awarded wine from the Alto Adige region. 

The Taber has the similar color and intensity in comparison to the Perl.  A nice blend of both black and red fruits on the nose and palate with this wine.  Nice layers and complexity on the palate with notes of chocolate, cassis, raspberry with great balance of acidity, fruit and tannins.  My pick of the two!  ABV 14%, SRP $80 

Pairing with Lagrein 

During our virtual tasting it was suggested to pair the Taber Lagrein with deer, steak or tortelloni with sausage.  Since my boys are big fans of sausage, and I have to appease many different palates in this house, I decided to go with a one pot sausage dish.  I browned some chicken sausage in a saute pan and then added some garlic, mushrooms, diced tomatoes, 1 cup of farro and 2 cups of chicken broth and simmered the ingredients for about 25 minutes.  Upon serving I added some additional sauteed spinach I had prepared on the side along with some grated pecorino on top. 

The sausage and farro dish was not only a hit, and one I’ll be making again, but paired really well with both Lagrein wines.  Simplicity in preparation of the dish with a blend of the complexity of flavors in the sausage and wine will please your palate and soul. 

one pot sausage, mushroom and farro dish

Follow along with the rest of the Italian food and wine writers as they take you through an array of Italian alpine red and white wines with some suggested pairings. 

• Alto Adige Red Wines Paired with Sierra Nevada Adventures and Cabin-Cooked Meals by Culinary Cam (you're here)

• Alto Adige Wine Pairings by Cooking Chat

• Bolzano and the Alto Adige Wines of Kellerei Bozen by Crushed Grape Chronicles

• From a Country of Contrasts: Pinot Noir, Schiava, Lagrein at Alpine Alto Adige's Cantina di Bolzano by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley

• From the Dolomites to Your Glass: Tasting 4 Alpine Reds and a Refreshing Kretzer by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog

• Head northeast for juicy Italian reds by My Full Wine Glass

• Italian Wines at Altitude by Avvinare

• Two Italian Dinners, Two Wines from the Italian Alps, and a Book Review by A Day in the Life on the Farm

• Uncorking the Italian Alps: A Journey Through Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and Exquisite Alp Whites by Our Good Life

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*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.  

Women's History Month: Featuring Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scerscé in Valtellina

When one thinks of the Nebbiolo grape and wines produced from Nebbiolo what region of Italy immediately comes to mind?  My guess is that most consumers would immediately think of the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy.  What if I told you that the Lombardy region right next door also produces Nebbiolo?   

In continuation of honoring Women’s History Month, I interviewed with Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scerscé whose winery is situated in the Valtellina wine region of northern Lombardy. Cristina works exclusively with Nebbiolo, which is locally known there as Chiavennasca.   

Cristina Scarpellini

Cristina’s winery, Tenuta Scerscé (pronounced “shaer-shay), is set in Lombardy’s northernmost part, Valtellina, bordering Switzerland.  This landscape is a valley that was carved out by glaciers during the last Ice Age with the Adda River that runs east out to Lake Como.   

Back in 2018 this area was deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The vineyards in Valtellina are steep and terraced, which are called muretti, meaning little walls.  This dramatic landscape demands the land to be worked by hand, which became an intensive labor of love for Cristina.  The winery is named after a traditional 2 pronged pitchfork called a “sciarscel” which is used for work around the roots and shoots of the vines. 

What’s the difference between Nebbiolo of the Valtellina wine region and Nebbiolo from it’s counterpart in Piedmont?  In Valtellina Nebbiolo tends to be on the lighter side and is less tannic.  This is mostly due to the climate being cooler in the Valtellina along with the higher elevations.  Although these wines lack the power of the neighboring Piedmont region, they display elegance.   

Chiavennasca grape

Now onto my interview with Cristina Scarpellini.  I hope you enjoy it! 

Tell me about your beginnings in the wine industry. I understand you graduated law at the University of Milan. What brought you to starting Tenuta Scersce?  

Yes, as you mentioned, I graduated in law in Milan after a research thesis in Paris. Then, upon returning to Italy, a series of coincidences in my life allowed the worlds of law and wine to coexist between 2006 and 2007. One of my clients at the time was actually a Valtellina winery. It all started as a joke, never thinking it would turn into the work of a lifetime. I began with one hectare on lease, and I still clearly remember all the details of that vineyard in the Villa di Tirano area. Initially, the project was managed by the winery, which did subcontracting work for me, until my husband and I decided to venture out on our own. This meant starting from scratch and dedicating ourselves to an agricultural activity we had never done before. My husband doesn’t work in the company, but he has always supported me, and to this day, we share a lot.  

Why did you choose Valtellina to establish your winery? Are you originally from Lombardia?  

This land captivated me from the very beginning because of its flagship grape, Nebbiolo, known here as Chiavennasca. And so, here I am. Scerscé was founded in 2008, and today, after nearly 17 years, it enjoys a good reputation among consumers. I was born and raised in Bergamo, a city I love and that reflects me a lot. It’s a land of hard workers and people who never give up.  

What are you most passionate about and what drives you day to day?  

I’m passionate about everything in this work. From the relationship with nature to the relationship with all the people who work with me in the company, who sell my wine, who tell its story, and who know how to value Scerscé every day. It’s a job where you must always stay up-to-date, be on the ball, never take anything for granted, study, gather information, and last but not least, have a lot of patience because nature always decides to do things its own way.  

What were some of the challenges when you first began your winery?  

The real challenge was starting, working with a small piece of land, trying to do things well, and gradually expanding the vineyard area of the company. In a territory like this, which is very fragmented, it is important to be persistent and responsible towards the people who entrust you with the care of their land. In fact, one often ends up purchasing a vineyard only after having worked it for several years because, at the core of the transaction, there is primarily a relationship of trust between the parties. The challenge is not just about starting a business in Valtellina—starting a winery in the last twenty years means rolling up your sleeves, making sacrifices, and being very realistic in both the entrepreneurial and managerial vision.  

Can you share what are some of your challenges you face today over 25 years later?  

The world has changed a lot in the last twenty years. Agricultural businesses today are real companies. It is no longer enough to have an exclusively agricultural approach; a managerial approach is necessary. We are witnessing a very rapid change in international commercial scenarios, and wine as a culture seems to be losing some of its appeal, but wine is culture, deeply embedded in the lives of all of us, especially in Italy. Unfortunately, there is also a high turnover and difficulty in finding both skilled and unskilled labor. This is a territory where almost everything is done by hand. On the terraces, it’s not always possible to access with mechanical equipment, so labor is understood as human power. Certainly, my background in law and the opportunity to travel and study abroad allow me to have broad horizons, to build a long-term vision, a company connected to the world. The legal aspect is also fundamental today for navigating the bureaucratic management of our field, which unfortunately is not lacking—in fact, it is constantly evolving and requires a lot of energy.  

"muretti" in the Valtellina vineyards

I see that you focus on farming your land both organically and sustainably. Can you tell me more about your initiatives in these farming methods?  

We simply don't use herbicides and we follow integrated pest management. This means intervening with a realistic approach, that is, when the plant needs  

it and not in a systemic way. A thorough study of the soil in each vineyard allows us to make the best choices to preserve its biodiversity, which is already very present in our vineyards.  

What is unique about the wines that you produce in the Valtellina wine region? Can you share more about the grapes and the land?  

The wines we produce in Valtellina are unique precisely because they are made in this region. We are located in the mountains with steep slopes, and everything is worked on terraces. Scerscé has terraces that start at an elevation of 400 meters and rise to 700 meters, with significant temperature variations between day and night. In this natural amphitheater between the mountains, the protagonist has always been Nebbiolo, whose biotype is known as Chiavennasca. It is a noble, demanding, and elegant vine that requires a particular environmental and climatic situation, to which the Rhaetian slopes are perfectly suited. 

The Guyot or Sylvoz-trained vines enjoy abundant sunlight, which here ensures the same number of sunlight hours as on Pantelleria—1,900 per year—and warmth, both of which are necessary for the vigorous development of the vines. 

During the winter months, the Rhaetian Alps protect the valley from cold north winds, while the Orobian Alps, with the Adamello, shield it from cold southern winds. The significant temperature range between day and night, which is especially noticeable during the summer months, not only adds depth to the aromas of the grapes but also extends their ripening period. From late spring through the summer, the Breva wind from Lake Como blows, warming and drying the vine leaves, protecting them from diseases. This creates an ideal microclimate that supports the development of the grape clusters and the ripening of the grapes. In our vineyards, all the Nebbiolo Chiavennasca red grapes grow on sandy-loam soil, completely grassed over, with generally low water retention and high permeability. 

The vines are strictly planted according to tradition, and the terraces are connected by stone steps. This requires exclusively manual maintenance, amounting to up to 1,500 hours per hectare per year. We have two important appellations: Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG. I manage three sub-zones of Valtellina Superiore: Valgella, Inferno, and Sassella.  

Being a woman in this male dominated industry, what advice would you give to other woman either starting out in this business or even just as woman in the wine industry today?  

I believe that being equipped with a mix of skills helps women a lot in any situation, from reading a contract to be signed with an importer, to writing a letter, to talking with various organizations. Culture is freedom, especially for a woman! Passion is always the starting point, but it’s not enough! It takes a lot, a lot of commitment and even a bit of obsession, in the most positive sense of the word. Great excellence without a touch of obsessiveness is difficult to achieve.  

Do you have any projects on the horizon for Tenuta Scersce?  

For me, it is very important to value every plot, every vineyard; therefore, that is the way forward. Yes, there are new projects, but I can’t reveal them now. You will see them come to fruition in a few years. 

The Valtellina wine region hosts about 40 wine producers that tirelessly work the land to produce wines that demonstrate what is unique about their piece of the Lombardy wine terrain.   

Have you tried wines from Valtellina?  

Once I get over this flu that I have I’ll be updating this article with one of the wines I will be trying from Tenuta Scersce.  

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*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.