Saturday, March 22, 2025

Women in Wine: Carrying on Traditions Featuring Ilaria Feluga

Over five years ago I had the opportunity to meet Ilaria Felluga and her father, Roberto Felluga ,at their importer tasting with Dalla Terra in the Boston area.  They both stood out to me that day.  Roberto seemed like a genuine, humble man for someone whose family’s heritage has been producing such respected, quality wines in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.  I loved the enthusiasm and drive that Ilaria had in traveling the world with her father to become involved in the family business.  Fast forward 2 years later in late November of 2021 Roberto unexpectedly passed away leaving the keys to his family’s legacy and traditions all in Ilaria’s hands to manage.   

Roberto Felluga and Ilaria Felluga wins
My meeting back in 2019 with Roberto and Ilaria Felluga

For Women’s History Month I was excited to have the opportunity to have a one-on-one video interview with Ilaria to discuss her beginnings in the business and her new role as CEO and owner of both wineries of the Felluga family, Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore.  I admire her bravery at such a young age to not only have to mourn the loss of her father, but to have to run such a large operation that carries the burden to continue to live up to her father’s legacy and produce high quality wines of the Collio wine region.   

Ilaria Felluga of Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore wins
Ilaria Felluga

Ilaria, when did you first get involved in the winery? 

Ilaria joined the winery in 2017 following her viticulture and enology studies.  Part of her studies at the university required her to do an internship working at a winery.  On the list of the suggested wineries for her to intern at was Marco Felluga, her family’s business.  She approached her father Roberto requesting an internship at the winery and he told her that she had to ask their enologist who was happy to have her join themNot only was she going to be the youngest and only female at the winery, she also the daughter of the boss.  

During the internship she worked in the vineyards learning how to gauge the acidity and sugars in the grapes while also taking part in the fermentation process once the grapes were harvestedThe technical part is what Ilaria personally loved the most 

Once she officially joined the winery, she was, and still is, more dedicated to the global travel and commercial sales including their Italian and foreign markets.  Italy is their primary market representing 65-70% of their sales followed by the United States.  Germany, Austria, UK and Australia are some of their other main markets.   

Tell me about the history of your family entering the industry. 

What is unique about their territory are the abundance of stories of families where parts of Italy became Slovenia after the World War and land was split between the two countries. Ilari’s family originated in Izola, on the Slovenian Adriatic CoastIt was under the Republic of Venice at the time and after the Hapsburg Empire the family decided to open a restaurant.  Her great grandfather, Michele, then wanted to sell and produce wine so he purchased land.  After World War II their family lost everything and decided to move to Grado, on the Friulian coast.   

Marco Felluga vineyards

Growing up do you feel you were destined to be on this path in wine or do you feel it changed at a certain point in your life? 

As an only child, her father Roberto never pressured her to do something she didn’t want to do. She was studying scientific materials in high school and when she finished, she didn't know what she wanted to continue to study.  She had never lived at the winery because she was living in Liguria with her mom due to her parents' divorce at a young age.  She had only visited the winery during the summertime and holidays.   

Her father advised her that he took a gap year and went to London and encouraged her to do the same to enhance her English skills They traveled there together where he left her behind to live with a family.  In the mornings she went to school and in the afternoon, she took care of the family’s children.  She also was working with their importer in the UK. In her last week Roberto joined her for some wine tasting dinners.  There was one evening where she joined him at a Michelin star restaurant where he conducted the tasting and something about that evening that changed her mind, and she decided that she wanted to return to Italy to study viticulture and enology.   

Russiz Superiore winery in Collio
Russiz Superiore vineyards
What do you love about your role today? 

She loves traveling and getting to know different people, listen to their stories and experience various culturesSharing ideas and points of views is the most incredible part for her along with the connections you create. 

What have been some of your biggest challenges that you have faced since stepping into your role? 

Prior to her father’s passing in November 2021, she had been discussing with him in 2020 and 2021 her involvement in the business.  He wanted her to start traveling globally alone and taking charge and owning something herself.  Making her presence known in the family’s business, to follow in her father’s footsteps, while always being on the road has been a challenge for her.     

What has been a huge challenge for her is being a woman, and a younger woman to add, in this industry, especially more so in Italy than abroad.  It does not happen on her personal team of 25 at the winery since many of the employees had been working alongside her father and grandfather for many years.  Although, when Roberto was alive the enologists were always talking to her father and not to her.  She feels she doesn’t get treated with the respect of the role that she is in.  

With the talk of the younger generation slowly transitioning away from wine, what are your thoughts on this? 

Ilaria stated that something is changing in the market for sure.  She has 3 cousins close to her age, with herself turning 30, along with her cousins at the ages of 26, 23 and 19.  Her cousin closest to her age drinks like herself enjoying wine for aperitifs and dinner.  The one in the middle only drinks for special occasions and the youngest isn’t drinking.  It’s different phases and ages.  When Ilaria was younger she was drinking shots, etc. but through the years her family was teaching her about the wine.  

She believes it’s important to keep wine simple and not at a higher level than what most portray it to be.  Ilaria has been hosting different events at the wineries to engage the younger generation and to make wine fun and engaging.  Her hospitality team brought the idea to do a wine and DJ night featuring music of the various generations, which has been a hit. It’s more attractive to some than to sit in silence at a wine dinner.   They serve wine with cicchetti, small bite sized snacks, and enjoy the lively entertainment in a fun atmosphere. 

What do you see as the future for your winery? Do you plan to change much? 

Ilaria is always respectful of traditions because she wouldn’t be where she is without them.  Roberto strongly believed in 2 things that she remains focused on. One, is the ability to demonstrate that the white wines from Friuli and Collio have ageability.  Some of these wines can sometimes be better with age than drinking them fresh.  There are white wines that can be drunk 5-20+ years after production.  For example, at Italy’s largest wine event, VinItaly, coming up they will be featuring their 1999 Russiz Superiore Col Disore Collio DOC Bianco.    

The second important item is the focus on the autochthonous grape varieties of the appellation including the Ribolla Gialla and Friulano grapesGetting the foreign markets to learn and understand these grapes is key and it’s something unique that they only have in this region and it’s part of their roots. 

Lastly, for Ilaria enoturism is something that she continues to focus on where folks can visit and understand what the winery and wine appellation is doing and why they are doing itThey have a local guide take folks through the vineyards to see the plants and animals that populate the area and show soils containing many fossils.  They also hold cooking classes where folks cook typical dishes paired with the wines.  These pairings along folks that wine can be something more. 

Ill be sharing the wines and updating this post this weekend so stay tuned!

You can find the wines of Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore  on Wine.com in support of Vino Travels.

 
*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.  I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through affiliate links.
 

Sunday, March 16, 2025

Chicken and Shrimp Pasta Alfredo Paired with Nunzio Ghiraldi Lugana DOC

This week spring hits here in New EnglandI’m looking forward to plenty of sunshine, which got me thinking about what white wines I had in my stash to tryIt was a tough decision between opening a bottle of Lugana or Soave as they are both whites I enjoy very muchI decided to go with a bottle of 2018 Nunzio Ghiraldi Il Gruccione Lugana DOC that had snuck by me and I felt had probably overstayed it’s welcomeTypically, I recommend drinking white wine in their youth up to 3-5 years upon release depending on the wine, but there are plenty of great white wines that can also surprisingly age well as well. 

About Nunzio Ghiraldi 

The Nunzio Ghiraldi winery all started back in the 1950’s when the current owner’s grandfather, Nunzio Ghiraldi, had purchased Podere Sant’Onorata that sat in the Lugana di Sirmione countryside of the Lombardy region of northern ItalyThe winery sits outside the southern borders of the picturesque Lake Garda that moderates the climate of this area along with the alpine breezes that travel down from the north. 

Nunzio Ghiraldi winery in Lugana wine region
Pictures sourced from Nunzio Ghiraldi

The vines of Nunzio Ghiralid’s vineyards are completely planted with the Trebbiano di Lugana grape, also known as TurbianaThe vines there can age anywhere between 15 years to their older 60 year plus vines which you can experience with their “Sant’Onorato 1953” wine.   

Trebbiano di Lugana Turbiana grapes
Trebbiano di Lugana/Turbiana grapes - sourced from Nunzio Ghiraldi
The Lugana wine region is unique not only for its microclimate, but also for the composition of the landThe soils of this area, and specifically within Nunzio Ghiraldi’s vineyards, are rich in clay that originate from glacial deposits that contain calcarous and mineral saltsThis is due to the last Alpine glacial period that existed in this area known as WurmAbout 50 acres of vines are made of pure clay soils on their territory that lend concentration to their Turbiana wines.   

clay soils of Lugana's wine region
Clay soils of Lugana - sourced from Consorzio Tutela Lugana
The 1700’s farmhouse located on the estate where the winery is located has always remained within the Ghiraldi family, but the family recently adding another farmhouse in 1995 that houses the winemaking facilities for the winery with an additional 37 acres of vineyards.  

Today the winery is run by the grandson, also Nunzio, whom followed in the family’s footsteps to live and work his family’s land and to continue to build upon the quality and reputation that the Ghiraldi family had established. 

The Wine 

The 2018 Nunzio Ghiraldi Il Gruccione Lugana DOC is made from 100% Turbiana.  The wine’s name, Il Gruccione, is named after the local, rare bird.  These low yielded grapes are hand harvested and whole bunch pressed with free run juice, known as mosto fiore.  It is fermented in stainless steel. 

2018 Nunzio Ghiraldi Il Gruccione Lugana DOC

This Lugana wine was brilliant straw colored with a floral bouquet of stone fruit, in particular apricots stood out.  Medium bodied with a round texture and mostly stone fruit flavors on the palate.  A touch of acidity and a tinge of salinity near the finish.  13% ABV, SRP $18-20 

Wine Pairing with Lugana 

In this house it’s hard to prepare a dish to go with my wine pairings that please all the various palates, especially since I have small boys.  I decided to go with a combination of a shrimp and chicken pasta dish in a light cream sauce to pair with this Lugana wine. Usually any cream based dish will pair well with a wine backed with some good acidity.  This wine from Lugana provided just the right amount of acidity to go well with this dish.  You could also try grilling the chicken or shrimp to provide an added layer of complexity to the pairing. 

wine and food pairing with Lugana wine

You can shop on Wine.com in support of Vino Travels and find a variety of Lugana wines to try for yourself.

 
*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.
 

Monday, February 10, 2025

9 di Dante Inferno Rosso Vermouth paired with Pork Tenderloin and Mushrooms

For the first time here on Vino Travels I am exploring the world of Vermouth.  I was invited to a virtual tasting last year led by Alex Ouziel, owner of 9 di Dante, a producer of Vermouth from the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy.  I have never been a fan of fortified wines, nor am I a martini or manhatten drinker that utilizes vermouth, so I had a lot to learn during this tasting.  Any time a brand or producer can change my impression and perspective on something, as was the case with the 9 di Dante vermouth tasting, I'm all in on learning and exploring more. 

All about vermouth

What is vermouth?  Vermouth is a fortified wine where the aromatics and flavors of the wine have been enhanced by herbs, spices and botanicals and fortified by distilled alcohol.  Alex explained that vermouth must be made by at least 75% wine, but typically there isn’t much focus on the wine itself.  This is where Alex’s passion lies in making vermouth by focusing on the grapes and the wine as the base. 

In understanding Vermouth there are 2 factors: the color and the sugar content.  Typically, vermouths are white since it is easier to work with white grapes.  Many of the vermouth that are red are due to the caramel coloring that is added.  In regards to 9 di Dante's red vermouth, that is not the case, but we will take about what makes their vermouth unique in a bit.   

When it comes to the varied levels of sugar content in vermouth there is

  • extra dry vermouth (less than 30 grams of sugar)
  • dry vermouth (30-50 grams of sugar) 
  • sweet vermouth (130 grams and above)   
What gave me a chuckle was that there was no explanation what happens to the Vermouth that are between 50 and 130 grams other than they don’t qualify to be labeled at stated levels.  Leave it to the Italians! 

9 di Dante partners Alex Ouziel and Mario Baralis
Alex Ouziel, founder of 9 di Dante, with partner and master blender, Mario Baralis

The beginnings of vermouth 

Vermouth began near the end of the 18th century around the city of Turin, the capital of the Piedmont region.  Not too distant from Turin is the port of Genoa, a top trading port, where spices would arrive at the harbor that were utilized in the production of vermouth.  During the 18th century Vermouth was enjoyed by royalty including the court of Savoy.  Later in the 1800’s Vermouth began to be exported to the United States and into the early 1900’s 33% of the classic cocktails, Alex shared, used vermouth in them in comparison to today where about 50/50 of the cocktails are a blend of spirits with Vermouth. 

About 9 di Dante

As the name states, Dante the famous Italian poet and writer, is the inspiration behind the 9 di Dante brand created by Alex Ouziel.    Per their site, "9 di Dante comes to life as a modern liquid version of the poem.  Vermouth is a power struggle between Wormwood and all the other botanicals, told in a language that everyone can understand....wine!"

Mario Baralis, a master blender that lives north of Asti whom had retired from this industry about 20 years ago, was sold on what Alex was trying to do with 9 di Dante and came out of retirement to assist him with this project and to lend his expertise.   

What sets 9 di Dante apart from many of the other vermouth is that theey are made from 100% Piedmont DOC native varietals with up to 83% wine content in comparison to the 75% minimum shared earlier.  Also, 100% of the herbs come from the area around the town of Alba in Piedmont.  The botanicals are extracted in pure alcohol in 27 separate batches at low levels of alcohol to make sure to not burn the herbs, with the exception of the vanilla and orange that can withstand higher levels of extraction.  These wines are also not aged. 

The 9 di Dante Vermouth is produced at the historic distillery in Alba, Dr. M Montanaro Distillery just about 5 miles outside of Barolo and 45 minutes from Turin.  This distillery is the first to make Grappa di Barolo in all of Italy.   

The Vermouth wine 

The 9 di Dante Inferno Rosso Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP is made from 50% of the red Dolcetto grape and 50% of the white Cortese grape.  Alex first bottled this wine in 2019.  He chose the Dolcetto grape to add its deep color and high tannin profile while the Cortese grape was chosen to lend its high acidity, crispness and help to retain freshness.   

9 di Dante Inferno Rosso Vermouth di Torino Superiore

This vermouth had 27 botanicals added, but 9 of those 27 guided the formula, similar to the 9 sins of Dante's Inferno in the Divine Comedy.  This vermouth was a lighter ruby red in color with red fruit and herbal aromas.  A bit of bitterness on the palate with notes of vanilla, spice, orange and cinnamon carried on with nice length.  I was expecting this wine to be more bold and overpowering on the botanicals, but waspleasantly surprised.  Personally, I’ve never enjoyed just sipping on vermouth from my limited experience, but did quite like this Inferno Rosso.  ABV 17.5% SRP $33 

The Vermouth pairing 

I don’t have any experience in pairing food with vermouth, but I thought it would be best to prepare a dish where I could incorporate the vermouth into my cooking of the meal.  I prepared a roasted pork tenderloin for this pairing. On the side I prepared baby bella mushrooms in some extra virgin olive oil with a little butter and about a cup of vermouth.  Cooking with the vermouth and the mushrooms added nice savory flavors to the dish and I poured the remaining liquid over the pork.  Delish!   

red Vermouth pairing with pork and mushrooms
 
*This wine was provided as a sample, but as always opinions are my own.