Back in October I attended a class and wine tasting of Pecorino d’Abruzzo led by Jeremy Parzen of Do Bianchi and hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo. It’s been nice to see this wine get some recognition in the market in recent years since it’s a wine that deserves a seat at the table, especially if you’re a white wine lover.
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| Jeremy Parzen |
The Abruzzo wine region is mostly made up of organic farming. For the farmers of this region it is a way of life and not just a marketing lure. They believe in expressing the purity of the environment through the farming methods. In Abruzzo there are many wine cooperatives with brands like Citra and Frontana being some of the larger producers. Some may turn their nose to coops, but what you have to remember is
that these coops create a sense of community and are made up of small
families that own small parcels of land that they tend to that band together to create these wines as a representation of Abruzzo wine.
The Pecorino grape
I believe the Pecorino name tends to catch ones eye because if you’re like me it’s one of my favorite cheeses, if not my most favorite cheese. Although this grape has nothing to do with pecorino cheese. It’s believed that this grape got its name from the transumanza, which was a migration of the sheep from the mountains to the valleys. Along the way the shephards ate the Pecorino grapes that were growing wild.
Pecorino’s homeland is in the L’Aquila province in the northwestern part of Abruzzo. This area is a very rugged, mountainous terrain of Abruzzo and the Pecorino grape loves elevation. There has also been an increase in producers seeking land and planting in the mountains due to climate change so maybe we will see more producers working with this grape to come in future years.
Pecorino is a grape that was forgotten until the 1980’s when producers in the Le Marche region, north of Abruzzo, began to reinvigorate this grape. In Abruzzo, Luigi Cataldi Madonna is the first one to bring this grape to life within the region. Luigi, winemaker and philosophy professor, believed that the world wanted more white wines. He had found old Pecorino vines that he replanted. He is believed to be the first one to actually label a bottle Pecorino starting with his 1996 vintage.
Pecorino is an aromatic grape with thick skins that loves clay soils. The grapes experience a nice diurnal shift in day to night temperatures that help preserve the wine’s acidity and good ventilation of the mountains help keep the grapes dry and healthy.
The Pecorino wines
Let’s take a look at some of my top favorite Pecorino wines from the tasting starting with my most favorite.
The 2023 Nuntius Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT is made from 100% Pecorino from the Mastrangelo Tenimenti del Grifone winery in Loreto Aprutino. This winery started in 2000 with the grandfather. The must goes through a short cryomaceration with the skins for 8-10 hours to extract the aromas these wines are known for. The grapes are gently pressed with the must chilled and decanted for 10-12 hours. It’s stored in stainless steel and aged on the lees for 3 months. It spends one month in the bottle before release to the market.
Grassy, green notes on the nose similar to some Sauvignon Blancs. Medium-bodied with some saltiness on the crisp palate. Round with ripe tropical fruit. ABV 13%
The 2023 Prope Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT is made from 100% Pecorino from the producer Velenosi in Ascoli Piceno. The owner, Angela Velenosi, is a native to Abruzzo. The name of this wine, Prope, in latin means near since Ascoli Piceno lies on the border of the Marche region. This wine is cold macerated for about 15 hours and vinified in cement barrels.
Tropical and citrus notes on the aromas. I found this wine to be light, airy and crisp with citrus/lemon notes and a touch of salt with a lengthy finish. Different in style from the previous wine, but there is a wine for every occasion or pairing. Jeremy threw out that this wine could pair with fish tacos and I could see it being a perfect pairing with this particular one. ABV 13%
The 2023 Colleventano Pecorino Superiore Colline Teramane Abruzzo DOC is 100% Pecorino from Fattoria Giuseppe Savini in Morro D’Oro, whom is one of the longest running producers in the area established in 1949 by Vincenzo Savini.
The grapes for this wine were immediately, softly pressed with a decantation for 36 hours with fermentation for about 12 days. It rests in stainless tanks for 2 months with the fermentation yeasts. Dry, with light to medium body, this wine was bright and crisp as well as delicate. Citrus nights with nice elegance with a lengthy finish. ABV 13.5%
The 2023 Il Pecorino Abruzzo DOC Pecorino is 100% Pecorino from the San Lorenzo Vini winery in Castilenti. The juice was cryomacerated and then softly pressed with spontaneous fermentation in stainless thanks with 3 months of refinement in the bottle.
The wine had aromas of green apple with round fruit, citrus and pineapple, showing on the palate. A touch of minerality showing nice elegance. ABV 13%
The 2023 Soprano Pecorino Controguerra DOC is from Cantina Strappelli in Torano Nuovo is made from 100% Pecorino. A much different Pecorino than the previously tasted wines with toasty aromas and a hint of vanilla. This Pecorino was mineral driven with a touch of vanilla on the palate as well with some nice length on the finish.
The remaining Pecorino wines tasted include:
- 2022 Tenuta Terraviva Ekwo Organic Pecorino Abruzzo DOC
- 2023 Idi di Marzo Oro del Mare Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT
- 2022 Poderi D’Aurizio D’Auri Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT
Have you tried this grape? What do you think and do you have any favorites?
You can shop on Wine.com in support of Vino Travels and find a variety of Pecorino wines to try for yourself.
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