Abruzzo's great white: Pecorino d'Abruzzo

Back in October I attended a class and wine tasting of Pecorino d’Abruzzo led by Jeremy Parzen of Do Bianchi and hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo.  It’s been nice to see this wine get some recognition in the market in recent years since it’s a wine that deserves a seat at the table, especially if you’re a white wine lover.   

The Abruzzo wine region

Abruzzo is located in central Italy and is only about 60 miles northeast of Rome through the mountains.  This region is uniquely situated with close proximity to the Adriatic Sea and some of the highest peaks in Europe including the Gran Sasso, the highest peak of the Apennines. 

Jeremy Parzen

The Abruzzo wine region is mostly made up of organic farming.  For the farmers of this region it is a way of life and not just a marketing lure.  They believe in expressing the purity of the environment through the farming methods.  In Abruzzo there are many wine cooperatives with brands like Citra and Frontana being some of the larger producers.  Some may turn their nose to coops, but what you have to remember is that these coops create a sense of community and are made up of small families that own small parcels of land that they tend to that band together to create these wines as a representation of Abruzzo wine. 

Abruzzo is mostly know for its red wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but there are so many other great wines of the region to enjoy including it’s rosè, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, and another white, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.  The Trebbiano of Abruzzo is similar to the Trebbiano of Tuscany, although in Abruzzo, this grape is richer and more mineral driven as Jeremy describes.  Then there is the other white grape of Abruzzo, Pecorino.  Let's learn more.  

The Pecorino grape 

I believe the Pecorino name tends to catch ones eye because if you’re like me it’s one of my favorite cheeses, if not my most favorite cheese.  Although this grape has nothing to do with pecorino cheese.  It’s believed that this grape got its name from the transumanza, which was a migration of the sheep from the mountains to the valleys.  Along the way the shephards ate the Pecorino grapes that were growing wild.   

Pecorino’s homeland is in the L’Aquila province in the northwestern part of Abruzzo.  This area is a very rugged, mountainous terrain of Abruzzo and the Pecorino grape loves elevation.  There has also been an increase in producers seeking land and planting in the mountains due to climate change so maybe we will see more producers working with this grape to come in future years.

Pecorino is a grape that was forgotten until the 1980’s when producers in the Le Marche region, north of Abruzzo, began to reinvigorate this grape.  In Abruzzo, Luigi Cataldi Madonna is the first one to bring this grape to life within the region.  Luigi, winemaker and philosophy professor, believed that the world wanted more white wines.  He had found old Pecorino vines that he replanted. He is believed to be the first one to actually label a bottle Pecorino starting with his 1996 vintage. 

Pecorino is an aromatic grape with thick skins that loves clay soils.  The grapes experience a nice diurnal shift in day to night temperatures that help preserve the wine’s acidity and good ventilation of the mountains help keep the grapes dry and healthy.  

The Pecorino wines

Let’s take a look at some of my top favorite Pecorino wines from the tasting starting with my most favorite. 

The 2023 Nuntius Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT is made from 100% Pecorino from the Mastrangelo Tenimenti del Grifone winery in Loreto Aprutino.  This winery started in 2000 with the grandfather.  The must goes through a short cryomaceration with the skins for 8-10 hours to extract the aromas these wines are known for.  The grapes are gently pressed with the must chilled and decanted for 10-12 hours.  It’s stored in stainless steel and aged on the lees for 3 months.  It spends one month in the bottle before release to the market.    

Grassy, green notes on the nose similar to some Sauvignon Blancs.  Medium-bodied with some saltiness on the crisp palate.  Round with ripe tropical fruit.  ABV 13% 

The 2023 Prope Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT is made from 100% Pecorino from the producer Velenosi in Ascoli Piceno.  The owner, Angela Velenosi, is a native to Abruzzo.  The name of this wine, Prope, in latin means near since Ascoli Piceno lies on the border of the Marche region.  This wine is cold macerated for about 15 hours and vinified in cement barrels.   

Tropical and citrus notes on the aromas.    I found this wine to be light, airy and crisp with citrus/lemon notes and a touch of salt with a lengthy finish.  Different in style from the previous wine, but there is a wine for every occasion or pairing. Jeremy threw out that this wine could pair with fish tacos and I could see it being a perfect pairing with this particular one.  ABV 13% 

The 2023 Colleventano Pecorino Superiore Colline Teramane Abruzzo DOC is 100% Pecorino from Fattoria Giuseppe Savini in Morro D’Oro, whom is one of the longest running producers in the area established in 1949 by Vincenzo Savini. 

The grapes for this wine were immediately, softly pressed with a decantation for 36 hours with fermentation for about 12 days.  It rests in stainless tanks for 2 months with the fermentation yeasts.  Dry, with light to medium body, this wine was bright and crisp as well as delicate.  Citrus nights with nice elegance with a lengthy finish.  ABV 13.5% 

The 2023 Il Pecorino Abruzzo DOC Pecorino is 100% Pecorino from the San Lorenzo Vini winery in Castilenti.  The juice was cryomacerated and then softly pressed with spontaneous fermentation in stainless thanks with 3 months of refinement in the bottle. 

The wine had aromas of green apple with round fruit, citrus and pineapple, showing on the palate.  A touch of minerality showing nice elegance.  ABV 13% 

The 2023 Soprano Pecorino Controguerra DOC is from Cantina Strappelli in Torano Nuovo is made from 100% Pecorino.  A much different Pecorino than the previously tasted wines with toasty aromas and a hint of vanilla.  This Pecorino was mineral driven with a touch of vanilla on the palate as well with some nice length on the finish. 

The remaining Pecorino wines tasted include: 

• 2022 Tenuta Terraviva Ekwo Organic Pecorino Abruzzo DOC 
•  2023 Idi di Marzo Oro del Mare Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT 
•  2022 Poderi D’Aurizio D’Auri Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT 

Have you tried this grape?  What do you think and do you have any favorites?

You can shop on Wine.com in support of Vino Travels and find a variety of Pecorino wines to try for yourself.

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Thanksgiving Feast with Umbrian Madrevite Gamay del Trasimeno

As we are quickly approaching the Thanksgiving holiday it is a time for not only celebrating our family and friends, but also for enjoying a delicious meal while doing so.  While there are a variety of traditional dishes prepared for Thanksgiving, knowing which wine to serve with the Thanksgiving feast is always a question on everyone’s mind this time of year.   

From the appetizers to side dishes to the main feast followed by dessert how can one decide which wines are the best?  Personally, I drink what I like. Plain and simple.  Although, something is to be said for finding that perfect pairing to marry the flavors of the dishes with the wine.  I find it easier to break it up by course.  I always go for a sparkling wine or white wine for the appetizers, red for the main course, and a dessert wine to end the meal.  Although with so many pies to dig into, the dessert wine selection sometimes gets left by the wayside.  Can you blame me? 

This week I prepared a mini-Thanksgiving feast to enjoy a wine that I was reminded of at a recent class on Umbrian wines in Boston last month.  I also had a bottle on hand at home and it seemed it would pair lovely with a Thanksgiving meal preview.  This bottle is the 2020 Madrevite C’osa Gamay del Trasimeno Riserva DOC.  You may recall I have featured Madrevite previously with their 2019 vintage of C’osa. 

The Madrevite Winery 

The Madrevite winery is located in northern Umbria, bordering Tuscany, within the Perugia province in the town of Castiglione del Lago.  The name of the winery, Madrevite, comes from an ancient name for the piece that corked the barrels.    

Winemaking on the property began with Tino Chiucchiurlotto in the 70’s, whom is the grandfather to the current owner and winemaker, Nicola Chiucchiurlotto.  It wasn’t until 2003 when Madrevite was officially established by Nicola.   

Nicola reintroduced a clone of Gamay from old Gamay vines that he discovered on the property of Madrevite and planted new vines.  The Gamay grape was brought to the Trasimeno area in the 1600’s by the Spanish.  Eleonora Alarcon y Mendoza, whom was the wife of Duke Fulvio della Corgna whose family ruled Castiglione, was a fan of Gamay for its aromatics, structure, roundness and alcohol levels.

Nicola Chiucchiurlotto and the future of Madrevite

 Madrevite Wine 

The 2020 Madrevite C’osa Gamay del Trasimeno Riserva DOC is a wine made from 100% Gamay del Trasimeno.  This wine was given the name C’osa to represent whom is daring to try this wine.  The eye-catching artwork on the label from artist Jean-Michel Basquiat seems to capture that essence of boldness. 

Nicola’s grandfather, Zino, grafted these ancient Gamay cuttings in the 70’s to 100+ year old vines at the small vineyard on top of the hill at the estate. The grapes were manually harvested and spent 6 months in concrete with 12 months in large barrel with an additional 6 months in the bottle.  Deeper ruby colored the aromas of this wine are lovely.  Ripe and dried blackberries, plums and black cherry with a little bit of spice.  Juicy acidity on the palate with smooth, fine tannin and a round mouthfeel.   

Thanksgiving wine pairing  

I found this wine to go rather nicely with this mini selection of a pre-Thanksgiving meal.  Medium bodied with ample fruit, good acidity along with smooth tannins helped complement the turkey and sides.  Although this was just a small selection of some of the typical sides to be enjoyed on Thanksgiving, I feel this wine will stand up well to many of the options for your Thanksgiving meal.   

Join my fellow Italian food and wine lovers as they share some other Italian wines to consider for your Thanksgiving feast!

• Wine Predator... Gwendolyn Alley serves up 4 Italian Wines for Thanksgiving: Prosecco, Chardonnay, Barolo, Passito with a coursed meal 
• A Day in the Life on the Farm is Celebrating an American Thanksgiving with an Italian Antipasti Platter and a Sparkling Wine from Italy that is not Prosecco 
• Culinary CamNAME says Grazie Mille: Veg-Forward Sides and Villa Dora's 'Vigna del Vulcano' Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco 
• Our Good Life shares Wine pairings and Pumpkin Pie
• Wineivore is serving an Italian Thanksgiving with Coppo Wines

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*This wine was received as a sample, but opinions are always my own. 

The Historic Coppo winery of Piedmont and their UNESCO underground wine cellars

It’s been almost 10 years since I’ve featured the wines of Coppo when I shared their 2013 Coppo La Rocca Gavi.  Wow!  That makes me sound old in the world of blogging.  When fellow wine writer, Jeff of Food Wine Click, presented the opportunity to taste some of the wines of Coppo again I was happy to jump on board.  I had the chance to try two Coppo wines I had yet to try their Monteriolo Chardonnay and Pomorolo Barbera.  Let’s chat a little about the winery first. 

The beginnings of Cantina Coppo 

The Coppo winery was initially established in 1892 and is considered one of the oldest wineries.  This is due to its recognition in 2012 by Unioncamere by as being a business that has had uninterrupted activity in the same sector for over 120 years.   

Coppo vineyards by Coppo winery

Piero Coppo was the original founder who had a passion for the wine industry and with his keen attention to detail he managed all stages of the winemaking process from beginning to end.  He married his wife, Clelia Pennone, whose family was a known wine producer, Pio Pennone, that had been producing and exporting wine for over 2 generations.  Piero’s mission was “to produce wines to express the local environment specificity” with “a constant commitment to uncompromising quality”.  Piero’s winery grew to about 128 acres with vineyards in Canelli, Gavi, Agliano Terme, Castelnuovo Calcea and the Langhe.  The focus was on grapes to include Barbera, Chardonnay, Moscato, Gavi and Nebbiolo. 

Canelli, the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine 

Upon Piero’s marriage Clelia, he joined Pio Pennone on their premises in Canelli where the company is still headquartered today.  Canelli is considered the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine.  In the late 19th century, Canelli was the location of the first Italian sparkling wine that was bottle fermented.  This is credited to Carlo Gancia, a pioneer that used Moscato grapes to produce these sparkling wines via the Champagne method.  He produced these wines in the underground cellars, or underground cathedrals, that are today recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The UNESCO recognized underground cellars of Coppo 

The tunnels that run underneath Canelli were originally excavated in the late 18th century.  They were dug out in the tufa by hand.  These tunnels, or underground cathedrals as they call them, were used for making and aging wine.   

Coppo underground cellars by Noemi Mengo

They run for a total of 16,400 feet and 130 feet deep and provide a consistent humidity and temperature level.  In 2014 they were recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and you can visit these tunnels today in Canelli.

Coppo underground cellars by Noemi Mengo

Coppo wines 

The 2022 Coppo Chardonnay Monteriolo Piemonte DOC has been produced since for 40 years since 1983.  It is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes.  These grapes are grown on marly, chalky soil at vineyards that sit about 2,100 feet above sea level.  The grapes macerate for 14 days and are aged for 8 months in French oak barriques are 50% new and 50% used barrels.   

This wine was straw colored with some goldish hues.  A slight toast with a touch of vanilla on the nose.  Medium in body with fresh acidity and ripe tropical fruit with a creaminess on the palate.  SRP $59 

I wasn't planning on doing any pairings this week since we are in our final week of the football season with my boys so to say I've had little time is an understatement.  I did make a chicken, broccoli and pasta dish that did end up pairing well together with this Chardonnay.  Secretly I prepared it in my instant pot as well.  This has become my best friend being short on time, but still wanting to eat a good meal.
 

The 2021 Coppo Pomorosso Nizza DOCG is Coppo’s leading Barbera that helped Coppo get worldwide recognition for it’s quality.  They have producting this wine, made from 100% Barbera, since 1984.  It wasn’t until 2014 when the Nizza DOCG was granted approval that it fell under this new designation.  Nizza is a small sub region within Monferrato. 

The wine is named after the red apple tree that grows at the top of the hill where the vineyards are located.  This wine spends 14 months aging in oak with an additional 6+ months in the bottle.  Coppo recommends that this wine will hit it’s peak with 5-10 years of ago.  Unfortunately, in order to share this wine with you I had to use my Coravin to pull some out, but I will revisit this bottle at a later time. 

The 2021 Coppo Pomorosso was deep ruby in color with purple highlights.  A rich nose of blackberry and black cherry with some spice and a hint of cocoa.  On the palate this wine is full-bodied with bright acidity.  Dark black plush fruits with plum and blackberries filling the palate.  spice with a touch of cocoa again along with a hint of oak on the elegant finish.  This wine was surprisingly 16.5 ABV, which I didn’t pick up at all.  SRP $69

The Coppo winery was acquired in 2021 by Gruppo Dosio that is led by Gianfranco Lanci, but the Coppo family still manages parts of the winery and is also part of the Board of Directions at Gruppo Dosio.  

Join the rest of my fellow wine writers as they sample an array of Coppo wines with some suggested pairings.

 • Camilla from Culinary Cam says "Let's Talk About Cortese and Barbera Grapes: Two Wines from the Historical Underground Wine Cellars of Coppo + Pairings"
• David from Cooking Chat shares "Pairings for Coppo Barbera and Moscato d'Asti "
• Payal from Keep the Peas shares "Coppo Winery 2023 Chardonnay 'Costebianche' x Vegetarian Punjabi Food"
• Linda from My Full Wine Glass shares "Two Piedmont classics: Nizza Barbera and Moscato d'Asti "
• Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles reports on "Tunnels and Tufa - The Underground Cathedrals and Coppo Cellars"
• Terri at Our Good Life shares "Pairings with Nizza Barbera and Coppo Monteriolo Chardonnay"
• Martin at Enofylz Wine Blog shares "Historic Wines, Timeless Pairings: Coppo’s Nizza Barbera and Barolo with Wild Mushroom Risotto"
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator shares "From Coppo's UNESCO Cellars: Nizza and Gavi Paired with Shrimp Ceasar and Duck with Winter Squash Gratin"

• Lynn at Savor the Harvest shares "Chardonnay From One of the Oldest Family-Run Wineries in Italy - Coppo"
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares "Dinner with Coppo Wine Cellars Flagship 'Pomorosso' Nizza Barbera"

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*These wines were received as samples, but opinions are always my own.  I may receive commissions for any purchases made via links included this article in support of the operations of Vino Travels.